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My mother was so nostalgic about the house where she spent her honeymoon that
her older children could have described it, room by room, as if we had lived
there, and even today it continues to be one of my false memories. And yet the
first time I actually went to Riohacha, not long before my sixtieth birthday,
I was surprised that the telegraph operator's house had nothing to do with my
memory. And the idyllic Riohacha I had carried in my heart since boyhood, with
its saltpeter streets that went
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