x*o
2 楼
h
m*s
7 楼
谢谢。
p*g
9 楼
有个tip,试试用paint tape沾住要锯的部分,可以很好的解决问题
s*l
10 楼
这种水桶不都是封闭的么,鱼能活么?
r*d
14 楼
haha
p*g
18 楼
http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1712-How-do-you-avoid-s
Where the teeth come out of the wood, you can get splinters. The faster the
cut, the larger the teeth, the more perpendicular to the surface and the
duller the teeth, the more splinters you will get.
For a hand saw, the splinters are on the bottom of the wood. For a portable
circular saw, the splinters are on the top of the wood. For a table saw the
splinters are on the bottom of the wood. For a Radial Arm Saw, the splinters
are on the bottom of the wood. For a sliding mitre box, the splinters are
on the top of the wood.
When using round saw blades, the angle at which the blade comes out of the
wood is important. If you have a circular saw with the shoe set to maximum
depth, you will get more splintering than if you set it so that it will just
barely cut through the wood, because the angle that the teeth come out of
the wood is lower to the wood when you are working on the outside of the
curve of the blade. Of course a very sharp blade and a slow cut will reduce
splinters tremendously.
Applying masking tape to the cut and cutting right through the tape will
help as well because then the neighbouring fibres are supporting the one
being attacked by the cutting tip. Be careful to not use a tape that will
leave a glue residue that can effect your finish.
The cabinet making tip is to score the cut line with a sharp knife,
essentially cutting off all the splinters before making them. Then saw right
up next to this cut, without hitting the cut itself or crossing over to the
other side. You will still create splinters, but they will break at the cut
line and there is not pressure on the fibres the other side of this line.
In the photo I was way off of the cut line just to show how the top fibres
lift and break at the line. For a precession cut, just keep your saw teeth
on or outside of that score mark and you will have a perfect splinter free
cut.
Where the teeth come out of the wood, you can get splinters. The faster the
cut, the larger the teeth, the more perpendicular to the surface and the
duller the teeth, the more splinters you will get.
For a hand saw, the splinters are on the bottom of the wood. For a portable
circular saw, the splinters are on the top of the wood. For a table saw the
splinters are on the bottom of the wood. For a Radial Arm Saw, the splinters
are on the bottom of the wood. For a sliding mitre box, the splinters are
on the top of the wood.
When using round saw blades, the angle at which the blade comes out of the
wood is important. If you have a circular saw with the shoe set to maximum
depth, you will get more splintering than if you set it so that it will just
barely cut through the wood, because the angle that the teeth come out of
the wood is lower to the wood when you are working on the outside of the
curve of the blade. Of course a very sharp blade and a slow cut will reduce
splinters tremendously.
Applying masking tape to the cut and cutting right through the tape will
help as well because then the neighbouring fibres are supporting the one
being attacked by the cutting tip. Be careful to not use a tape that will
leave a glue residue that can effect your finish.
The cabinet making tip is to score the cut line with a sharp knife,
essentially cutting off all the splinters before making them. Then saw right
up next to this cut, without hitting the cut itself or crossing over to the
other side. You will still create splinters, but they will break at the cut
line and there is not pressure on the fibres the other side of this line.
In the photo I was way off of the cut line just to show how the top fibres
lift and break at the line. For a precession cut, just keep your saw teeth
on or outside of that score mark and you will have a perfect splinter free
cut.
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