2014 - 瑞士（一）- BERN

Flight1: Thu May 22, Depart YYZ 6:10pm, arrive ZRH Fri May 23 7:50am

Fri May 23 – Mon May 26, Bristol Hotel , Stampfenbachstrasse 34 Zurich, 8006 CH  (CAD$980.91for 3 nights, breakfast included), +41 44 258 44 44

Fri May 23 Berne - 瑞士4天之旅的第一站

旅店选在火车站旁边可能不总是最完美的， 在欧洲应该是一个很方便和经济的选择。我们的飞机到达苏黎世是早上8点， 从苏黎世机场乘火车到达苏黎世火车站ZURICH HB只需20分钟(单程每人6.6瑞士法郎)， 一家三口拖着行李不费什么力气就找到了我们预订的酒店。酒店的价格反应出苏黎世的消费水平，三百多加币一晚的三星级酒店，房间陈设简陋得像国内过去的招待所，优点是交通方便，对于经常要坐火车出门的我们这一点很重要。酒店干净整洁，周边环境也不错，临近苏黎世河和老城区，包早餐，早餐质量也不错，总的来说还比较满意。

把行李寄存在前台，按计划先乘火车直奔瑞士的首都berne。

清晨的苏黎世火车站周边景色, 在瑞士的第一张照片恰好是女儿（在加拿大）最喜欢的巧克力品牌的广告

 

从苏黎世到首都Berne的火车票价格是这一行程中最贵的， ZURICH HB－》BERN 单程每人49瑞士法郎。一个小时之后我们来到Berne， 从火车站出来， 随着游人很快就来到了Berne的老街 Altstadt，Berne 被称为最不像首都的首都， 因为保持了大部分中世纪的建筑风貌，这里是世界文化遗产之一。走在老街上， 历史的痕迹无所不在， 建筑上的石刻，墙上的彩绘壁画，角落里的雕塑，街中央的喷泉， 玩偶钟楼，石桥， 小河。。。由石子铺成的步行街和马路上的有轨电车， 让我和老公想起了故乡哈尔滨的中央大街， 对这个城市陡生亲切感。

  

 

 

 

 

爱因斯坦曾在这里生活过两年， 老公在此有段独白， 特录如下：

向爱因斯坦致敬：据说，当年他呕心沥血推算了多年的理论，最终却得不出绝对值。失望的他不小心坐到了火盆里。在挣扎着起来的过程中，他觉得那几秒如几年般漫长。可当美丽的护士给他治伤时，那几十分钟竟如几毫秒般短暂。于是，恍然大悟。将他的理论命名为”相对论“，从此震惊世界！其实，在如火盆的现实和在如美女的理想之间，也要有相对的平衡，这是我站在伟人肩膀下，得到的启示呀。。。  

午餐去了Restaurant Harmonie, Hotelgasse 3, Bern CH-3011， 是城里最古老的餐馆之一， 以瑞士奶酪火锅cheese fondue著名。纯粹是慕名前往， 至于味道嘛， 对于我们这些纯粹的中国胃， 若说好吃有些勉为其难。价格也比较高， 点了一个Cheese Fondue加少许其它， 共计50.8法郎。

下午在老街漫步，远远地望见尽头的小山之顶，似乎有不少游人， 于是决定来一个小小的hiking， 登山看个究竟。连夜的飞机让我们都睡眠不足，边走边停，头重脚轻地来到山顶， 才发现这里竟然是Bern的另一著名景点Rose Garden， 这个不期而遇让一家三口的疲惫烟消云散。这里的玫瑰似乎并不出众， 吸引我们的是这里的休闲气氛， 孩童在草地玩耍， 年轻的母亲带着婴儿晒太阳， 年轻人席地而坐专心阅读，老人们则坐在咖啡店外聊天消磨时光。从山顶远眺Bern城市景色， 十分壮观。在公园里的咖啡店Rosengarten (Alter Aargauerstalden 31b, Bern 3006) 犒劳了自己一大份冰激凌，又喝罢冰咖啡 (21.6瑞士法郎)， 一家人或坐或躺，在绿茵茵的草地上小憩一番， 旅行中的片刻懒散十分珍贵。

 

 

Berne的另一个著名景点是国会大厦，楼前的喷泉吸引大人孩童驻足嬉戏。

穿过大楼的穹拱，楼后面的瞭望台景色优美，古老的城堡掩映在绿树之中，像童话世界，远处的阿尔卑斯山脉隐隐约约，像是这幅画的朦胧背景，我们逗留良久才离开，乘火车返回苏黎世。

 

 

回到酒店稍作休息，来到距酒店只需步行5分钟的餐馆Schuler's Weinwirtschaft "Am Stampfenbach" (Walchestrasse 11, Zurich, 85.9瑞士法郎) 这是个典型的瑞士餐馆，小而安静，服务极好。那天恰好有给晚餐伴奏的钢琴手，进餐之中听到了熟悉的乐曲“月亮代表我的心”，美食加音乐，让我们渡过了愉快的夜晚。

机票
$3,564  for 3 adults. 多伦多到苏黎世， 苏黎世到尼斯， 马赛回多伦多， 在慕尼黑中转。May 22 YYZ -- > ZRH direct； May 26 ZRH --> NEC direct； Jun 1 MRS --> YYZ, 1 stop at MUC
Weather: http://www.meteoschweiz.admin.ch/web/en/weather/detailed_forecast/local_forecasts.html?language=en&plz=zurich&x=0&y=0

Restaurant tips:

Schwellenmätteli Restaurants: Dalmaziquai 11, Bern

The Schwellenmätteli Restaurants lie right on the bank of the Aare river and consists of three unique establishments that provide a culinary oasis in the center of the capital city of Bern.
In the Restaurant Terrasse, guests enjoy mediterranean asian specialties seafood fresh from lakes, oceans and rivers any time of year. 
The Ristorante Casa serves Italian specialties in a cozy setting. 
The Event-Lounge has a versatile infrastructure ideal for special events, seminares and presentations.

Restaurant Kornhauskeller: Kornhausplatz 18, 3011 Bern

The Kornhauskeller is one of the most magnificent dining room of Switzerland and the dimensions of the room are an impressive experience. The center and side aisles, which resemble church architecture, lend the Kornhauskeller a sacred grace. A unique room, which invites you to enjoy the atmosphere in the restaurant, the vinotheque, the gallery with bar, lounges and humidor.The Kornhaus in Berne was built between 1711 and 1718. It is counted among the major works of Bernese High Baroque. The three upper floors were used as a granary, while the great space on the ground floor served as a market hall on market day and the cellar housed barrels filled with tithed and domain wines. "Venice sits on water, but Berne sits on wine" was a saying from this time.
At the beginning of the 19th century, the situation changed dramatically. Berne lost the lucrative administrative territories. The supply of food provisions was largely privatized and the system of wages in kind for public officials - in the form of wood, grain, and wine - was subsequently abolished. Grain storage facilities lost their proper function.
After a period of diverse usage, the Kornhauskeller was leased as an ale house. Innkeepers served up cheese and sausages on long tables and passed around wine from the vast barrels standing along the side walls.
The agricultural economy continued to slide. And so it was that in 1893, architect Friedrich Schneider was given the job of redesigning the high vaulted space into a venue where festivities could be held. He installed the wooden galleries, opened up the cellar with an impressive set of stairs. Prompted by the painter, heraldist, and municipal councilman Rudolf Münger (1862-1929), the city building administration announced a competition in 1897 aimed at providing the cellar with more colorful painted decoration. Münger submitted a proposal and received the commission.
In 1998, the city began searching for a leaseholder with innovative ideas who could bring new life to the Kornhauskeller. They decided on the BINDELLA companies.