B型血游记第七篇- 厉害了，维尔纽斯出生的这部宪法

以前我从没听说过维尔纽斯这个城市，这是立陶宛的首都。

立陶宛1991年从苏联独立出来，现在是立陶宛共和国。立陶宛的总统是今年64岁的单身女性-达利娅·格里包斯凯特Dalia Grybauskaite，空手道黑带高手，通晓英语、法语、俄语、波兰语。她09年当选立陶宛总统，是个受国民爱戴的强硬干练的女强人。独立27年后的今天，维尔纽斯已经是一个现代化的欧洲城市。

对于像我这样无知的游人来说，维尔纽斯和别的欧洲城市也真的没有什么区别：一条美丽的河道蜿蜒流过市中心，这条河叫维尔尼亚河，白天可见河上徜徉的游船，两岸树木郁郁葱葱，各式新老建筑鳞次栉比，很多桥梁横跨两岸。晚间，万家灯火隔岸相望，彩灯点亮的横桥如霓虹出水，水面上飘着小城繁华的倒影。

维尔纽斯最值得称道的是它的旧城，规模属欧洲最大的旧城之一，有将近1500座跨几个世纪的建筑物，著名的包括多哥特式风格的圣安娜教堂、文艺复兴式主教座堂及其广场和Gediminas 城堡，另外，一条条通幽古巷自成风景，使整个小城错落有致，魅力独特，在1994年维尔纽斯旧城被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。

图：圣安娜教堂内

维尔纽斯和立陶宛一道在历史上是个被宰割的地盘，曾隶属德国，波兰和俄罗斯，苏联等周边大国。二战时德国人在这片土地上屠戮了几十万犹太人，而最近发现的一处万人坑证明斯大林苏维埃政府也曾在此涂炭生灵。庆幸今天在这儿看到的是一派祥和的景象。我们住了两个晚上，记得第一个傍晚，我们吃过晚餐，坐在圣安娜教堂广场的长椅上小憩。那个时辰，广场中心悬挂着一个空中餐厅，据说只有夏天的两个月才可以享受；餐厅之上的碧蓝天空放飞着各色蒸汽球，由远及近，擦过一片橘红色的屋顶，飘向远处；脚边鸽子嘀咕，身旁路人轻笑，路畔酒菜飘香。第二天的日落时分，我们改去坐在主教坐堂前的广场上，据说年底教皇会来这里访问，所以教堂正在为此紧锣密鼓的装修。夕阳如期而至，毫不吝啬地大笔涂抹着这个世界地图上的微小存在-黄色如金，金色如彤！

图：主教座堂

维尔纽斯还有一个去处值得推荐，就是Galve湖边的特拉凯城堡。从维尔纽斯市过去开车一小时左右。这是个很美的去处。城堡是14世纪立陶宛王国公爵建的家居城堡，后来用作防御工事，又用作监狱，几经战乱终成废墟。我们现在看到的是上个世纪五六十年代修复的。最好的景观实际上是从湖边望去的景致，好像是镶在水中的迪斯尼城堡，又仿佛是蓝天碧水之间的一座海市蜃楼。走进去时要经过一条绿茵长堤，堤边有小船轻荡，野鸭游弋，还有手风琴声悠扬。城堡是一色红砖外观，里面的院落不大，有些老式刑具供游人玩赏。如果真的有机会去那里，我建议一定要绕着城堡走一圈，看看周围的湖景，另外离开之前在湖边的餐厅吃上一只那里的烤酥皮角Pastie。Pastie是当地的名吃，而这里做的又最有名。一般是羊肉馅儿的，我不吃羊肉，就要了鸡肉馅儿的，的确好吃，外酥里鲜，名不虚传。

图：特拉凯城堡

如果问起今天的维尔纽斯什么最著名，前面说的旧城和城堡恐怕都不如“对岸共和国”更有名有趣。1997年愚人节那天，住在维尔纽斯旧城东区河岸的几个艺术家向联合国递交了一份申请，并宣布在其聚集地成立一个独立的共和国，叫对岸共和国（Uzupis respublika）。他们有自己的国旗、货币、护照、宪法，并成立了一支12人的“军队”，还设有总统。当地有艺术画廊，艺坊和零星咖啡馆，据说去那里最重要的一点是要保持微笑。可惜我们没有机会在那里停留，导游说如今能看到的也就是钉在墙上的41条宪法章程了，还把章程的照片传给我们看，让我们一车人觉得十分有意思。我回来去网上找到了英文的宪法章程看看，有些真的令人忍俊不禁 。想起要是文学城哪天宣布为独立共和国，其中的几条倒是可以借鉴，比如：

21. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance. 每个人都有权利对自己的不重要性有所欣赏；

24. Everyone has the right to understand nothing. 每个人都有权利保持无知；
32. Everyone is responsible for their freedom每个人要对自己的自由负责；

34. Everyone has the right to be misunderstood. 每个人都享有被误解的权利；
35. No one has the right to make another person guilty. 没人拥有让他人感觉内疚的权利。。。

有时候旅行带给人的不仅是视觉和心灵的经验，还有脑筋急转弯的乐趣。我在维尔纽斯获得了这样的乐趣。

附：对岸共和国宪法（The Uzupis Constitution terms）

1. Everyone has the right to ylive by the River Vilnele, and the River Vilnele has the right to flow by everyone.
2. Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.
3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.
4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
5. Everyone has the right to be unique.
6. Everyone has the right to love.
7. Everyone has the right not to be loved, but not necessarily.
8. Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown.
9. Everyone has the right to idle.
10. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.
11. Everyone has the right to look after the dog until one of them dies.
12. A dog has the right to be a dog.
13. A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of need.
14. Sometimes everyone has the right to be unaware of their duties.
15. Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not an obligation.
16. Everyone has the right to be happy.
17. Everyone has the right to be unhappy.
18. Everyone has the right to be silent.
19. Everyone has the right to have faith.
20. No one has the right to violence.
21. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance.
22. No one has the right to have a design on eternity.
23. Everyone has the right to understand.
24. Everyone has the right to understand nothing.
25. Everyone has the right to be of any nationality.
26. Everyone has the right to celebrate or not celebrate their birthday.
27. Everyone shall remember their name.
28. Everyone may share what they possess.
29. No one can share what they do not possess.
30. Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.
31. Everyone may be independent.
32. Everyone is responsible for their freedom.
33. Everyone has the right to cry.
34. Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.
35. No one has the right to make another person guilty.
36. Everyone has the right to be individual.
37. Everyone has the right to have no rights.
38. Everyone has the right to not to be afraid.
39. Do not defeat.
40. Do not fight back.
41. Do not surrender.

进一步了解，可读下半场共好有关博客http://blog.wenxuecity.com/myblog/73980/201806/1274.html