带着女儿游欧洲(11):圣门洗罪•许愿池徘徊•西班牙阶梯登高
我们排队进梵蒂冈博物馆,许多的游客,很长的队伍。导游说我挺幸运的, 2000年时带着儿子来参观,那时游客是走圣门的,所以洗净了身上的罪孽。
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现在大家走博物馆大门,就不容易被洗干净了。
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博物馆有一个模型,列出了梵谛冈的领土,包括圣彼得广场、圣彼得大教堂、梵蒂冈宫和梵蒂冈博物馆等。
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梵蒂冈博物馆原是教皇宫廷,所收集的稀世文物和艺术珍品,堪与伦敦大英博物馆和巴黎卢浮宫相媲美。
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西斯廷礼拜堂(Cappella Sistina)是博物馆之精华,是罗马教皇的私用经堂,也是教皇选举仪式的举行地。米开朗基罗的巅峰画作《创世纪》和《最后的审判》是礼拜堂的镇堂之宝,在礼拜堂内是不允许拍照的,所以下面两幅图是从网上下载的。
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《创世纪》位于西斯廷礼拜堂大厅天顶的中央部分,是以建筑框为边界而画的连续9幅宗教题材的壁画。这幅巨型壁画创作于1508年5月至1512年10月期间,历时长达4年之多。
画题均取材于《圣经》的开头部分中,从开天辟地直到洪水方舟的故事,分别为《神分光暗》、《创造日月草木》、《神分水陆》、《创造亚当》、《创造夏娃》、《逐出伊甸园》、《诺亚献祭》、《大洪水》和《诺亚醉酒》。这9幅是中心画面,边上加了众多的装饰画,总共绘有343个人物。
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《最后的审判》画在礼拜堂祭坛的墙壁上,创作于1535年末至1541年10月31日,用了近6年的时间。巨作占满了整面的墙壁,描绘有400多个人物。他们是以现实和历史中的人物为模特儿的,因此这与其说是圣经传说中的末日审判,不如说是以画家的善恶观而对现实世界中的人物进行的评判。
画面大致可分为四个阶层,最上层是天国的天使,画面中央是耶稣基督,下层是受裁决的人群,最底层是地狱。画面构图是这样安排的:上方与天顶画相接处两个半圆形画面是一些无翼天使,他们正簇拥着基督受难时的十字架等物,左面一组抱的是十字架,右面一组抱的是耻辱柱。耶稣下方七个吹号角的天使正在唤醒死者宣示审判开始。画面正中央云端闪电中站着身材高大、神态威严的救世主基督,他正举起有力的右臂,表示审判开始。耶稣十二门徒和圣母玛丽亚环绕在旁边,圣母玛丽亚畏缩地抓紧头巾和衣衫,屈身在儿子的右肋之下。左边是基督的门徒和殉道的圣者们;左手背小梯子的,通常被认为是亚当,后面围红头巾的女人,被认为是夏娃;还有一个体格壮实的老人,被认为是圣保罗。右下方云端是使徒圣巴多罗买,手中拿着一张殉道时被割下的人皮,这张人皮所画的正是米开朗基罗自己,这是米开朗基罗的签名或可以理解为他对于信仰的态度。画面下部是善恶两部分人,他们正受到复活的耶稣的裁决。画面左侧所描绘的人物是将升往天国的人群,右侧则是将被打入地狱的亡魂。右下角水面的船上向亡魂挥舞船桨的是地狱的引渡人:冥神夏龙。坐在船上的亡魂将渡过阿克隆河,然后被打入各层地狱。米开朗基罗将他所厌恶的教宗儒略二世绘入了这幅作品,为了表达不满,他将教宗画在下方地狱的地方,并且被蛇怪所撕咬。
观赏了米开朗基罗的两幅巨作,我们可以得出两个结论:
- 二十四年可以让人改变许多,当米开朗基罗创作《创世纪》时,他的作品受到许多条条框框的限制,而当他创作《最后的审判》时,他的魔笔达到了完全自由的境界。
- 千万不要得罪任何画家,一旦被丑化成坏人之后,那可是永世都不得洗清了。
当我第一次看了《创世纪》后,我被深深地感染了,回家后写了一部长篇小说:《股市疯狂的日子》。十三年过去了,我当然也被岁月磨掉了许多棱角,有幸再一次观摩《最后的审判》,我看到了错综复杂中的统一与和谐。
出了梵蒂冈博物馆,我们进入世界最大圆顶教堂:圣彼得大教堂(Basilica di San Pietro in Vaticano)。
圣彼得是耶稣的12个门徒之一,也是耶稣最亲密和忠诚的门徒。据说圣彼得就埋在这座教堂内,他是教堂的第一任首领和罗马第一任大主教。大教堂内有圣彼得的铜制雕像,据传触摸他的右脚就能得到神的保佑和好运,所以他的右脚已被磨损得明显小于左脚。
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我们徒步穿越圣彼得大广场。这个人类历史上最辉煌的椭圆形建筑,由284根巨大石柱环绕,每根柱上矗立着古殉道者和圣人的大理石雕像,雄伟壮观。
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接着我们游览了古罗马君士坦丁大帝的凯旋门。
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在古罗马斗兽场的外面,这次我们没有进去参观。
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儿子从前在斗兽场里面的留影。
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下一站是电影《罗马假期》的拍摄地:许愿池。按照规则,第一个愿是重回罗马,第二个愿是找到如意的配偶,第三个愿是离婚重找配偶。我在许愿池前徘徊,是不是要扔硬币呢?我想我已经来了罗马两次,下一次就听天由命了。我现在已婚,也没有打算离婚,所以也没有再许什么愿了。
这一刻我站在许愿池前,心静如水,不求什么,但求平安是福。
当然女儿扔了一个硬币,她还小,重回罗马应该不成问题。
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在罗马街头自由行走是一种愉悦。
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西班牙阶梯(Scalinata della Trinita dei Monti)也是《罗马假期》的一景,阶梯在欧洲是最长与最宽的,女儿跟着团友蹭蹭地爬了上去。
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我则选择了一条捷径:乘电梯。这样就可以经过破船喷泉(La Fontana della Barcaccia)。
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再多看一眼西班牙广场(Piazza di Spagna)。
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西班牙阶梯的顶端是山上天主圣三教堂(Trinit dei Monti),我们登高远眺整个西班牙广场,观看街头的名店,俯视熙攘的人群,别有一番爽心悦目的感觉。
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女儿日记
17 day trip – day 12
Rome: three out of five
Today I went to Rome! It's a very ancient city, dating back to the Roman Empire. It has many old buildings, including the Coliseum (also known as the Flavian Amphitheater), the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Basilica, and the Forum. I just studied Rome in school, so I know some extra info about some of the monuments. Even though these Roman places are very old, they're mostly intact. I didn't go into the Coliseum, but I did go into the Forum. When I first had gone in, I didn't recognize it. Then I'd seen a huge pillar with Emperor Trajan's accomplishments on it, and I remembered that I'd seen it in a video about Rome. I went into the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica. There are both churches. The Sistine Chapel is very small; St. Peter's Basilica is very big. Another place in Rome that I went to was a wishing well. If you throw one coin in, you will come back to Rome, two coins mean you will get married there, and three coins mean a divorce. In the year 2000, my mom threw in one coin, and now she came back! Rome is very hilly, but not more than San Francisco.
Five course dinner: five out of five
I had a five course dinner today. I had melon and ham, spelt soup, potatoes and fish, and tiramisu. The fourth course (which I didn't eat) was salad. It was contaminated with dressing, but not eating salad helped me save space for the other courses.