2014 - 07 - Adirondacks
2014 06 28 ~ 07 01
初夏的热浪仿佛是一下子就跳到面前，这总让我有出门旅行的冲动。 于是有了想法， 要去找一找美国境内的cottage 和 park， 感受一下与我们熟悉的安省的夏天有多少不同。不想开车太远，就从纽约州的State Park 开始， 很自然的找到了Adirondacks State Park，一进入这个网页 http://visitadirondacks.com/， 我就知道我一定要去这里了。
这个美国最大的州立公园实在太大了，可玩的地方太多了。浏览找寻之中，首先确定的是这个cottage，http://www.laplandlake.com/ ，网站首页很吸引人，那宁静的湖水和岸边的canoe/kayak，似乎是在等待我们一家三口的到来。 这个由美国前cross country滑雪运动员创建的冬夏两季的cottage resort居然可以按天出租， 我兴奋不已， 六月底的周六全部售空， 只好订了周日周一两天。Cottage位于Adirondacks的南部， 而 Adirondacks的北部旅游胜地Lake Placid 地区也正是我们很向往的地方，索性周六就住那里了，事实证明，这是个多么正确的选择。网站http://www.lakeplacid.com/ 旅游信息应有尽有， 我们的hiking信息基本都来自于此。
星期六一大早6点出发。从千岛湖出境，过关顺利，开 往 Hampton Inn & Suites Lake Placid, 801 Mirror Lake Drive, Lake Placid, NY 12946。Lake Placid的海拔是1800英尺，车子进入到Adirondacks Park地区就发现道路蜿蜒起伏， 山地自行车运动十分普遍，经常要和运动员们共用山路。沿途看到多项进行中的体育赛事：有铁人三项比赛，马术比赛， 规模不小，颇有运动之乡的感觉。
按计划今天先hiking，再入住酒店， 事先查了四个trail的资料， 最终选择去看貌似比较业余的Beaver Meadow Falls (3.7 mile one way)。 很快走完Beaver Meadow Falls和rainbow falls，期间第一次和美丽的鹿近距离对望， 兴奋又紧张。我们想起山下看门人介绍的Indian Head trail是他的favourite， 都觉得不去会留遗憾，于是决定一试。
谁知这个选择让我们创造另一个平生第一次： 爬（不是做缆车哟）到海拔2700英尺的山峰（Lake Placid的海拔是1818英尺）。由于是临时决定爬山，我们碰巧选择了最陡峭的一侧上山， 爬山过程多处悬梯都要手脚并用， 此时天色已晚， 一家三口又饿又累，几此都想放弃爬山了。 然而，终于坚持到达顶峰的那一刻，一切都释然了！德国阿尔卑斯山脉和瑞士雪山的震撼还留在我们的心里， 可是这里的感受却截然不同 ：没有那般的大气雄浑，确有这般的秀美亲切， 不知是不是先前的艰苦努力让此刻的风景平添魅力。
山下的湖水悠闲而飘渺， 两侧的山峰郁郁葱葱，离你很近，似乎伸出手来， 就能触及那初夏的翠绿。在被太阳晒得热热的巨大岩石上坐下来， 任山风抚发，看云卷云舒， 如梦纯净，心旷神怡，女儿说真想一直待在这里。。。 下山时选择了另一条路， 只有一处悬梯，稍好走些。
赶回酒店，用微波炉热了我们的自带晚餐, 加上LG的favourite Samuel Adams 啤酒，劳累了一天的一家人吃的很痛快。
回想这一天，体验了许多，感慨了许多，惊叹了许多。。。浓缩的沸腾生活，是我们每日平静的加拿大生活不可或缺的调剂， 不是吗？不知从何时开始女儿对我的评价是Crazy mom， 说的对， 很庆幸还有点实力去做有点crazy的事情。LG说我们当天不停歇地爬山共计5.5个小时， 很为我们的小实力惊讶， 也为很少hiking的女儿而骄傲。
顺便提一下这片山川湖泊， 包括我们走的trails都是私有财产，归属Adirondack Mountain Reserve (AMR)，进门在山下要登记的， 看看这个club介绍很有意思http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ausable_Club, 在AMR 的土地上，高尔夫， 网球，会所， mountain hiking， 湖泊泛舟，尽在一个club之中，夫复何求？
酒店坐落在Mirror lake旁， 星期天一大早就看见着装统一的泳者就在湖中训练， 直到中午时分才结束。酒店用过早餐，逛了逛这个两次举办冬奥会（1932，1980）的美丽小镇，有很多有趣的商铺小店，Café, 零食，纪念品， 有个十分红火的Deli restaurant赫然写着：46 Best Sandwiches in the High Peaks， 这是因为Adirondacks mountain一共有46个peaks，看看小店菜单， 还真的有46种sandwitch，有趣。有很多人的志向是去征服这46个山峰， 我的理想是下一次再来登上Whiteface Mountain。
在一路下来， 女儿最爱的是这家充满创意的店FORTUNES OF TIME LAKE PLACID,， 里面的很多东西都很独特，设计新颖，耐人寻味。
在离开这里去cottage 之前， 还想走个trail，鉴于昨天的大运动量，找了个较平坦的 Whiteface Landing， 听说有人会沿 lake placid lake 划船（kayak）到此， 然后攀登Whiteface mountain，女儿说希望有一天她会实现。。。
把车停在窄小的trailhead， 开始一路与蚊子的搏斗， 终于到达Whiteface Landing， 又有小惊喜， 真的有个dock， 早有人把游艇开来停泊于此，一家人游泳晒太阳聊天， 我们也坐在dock上， 凉风习习， 暑气全消，眺望远山，心旷神怡。 索性脱掉鞋子，用脚感受湖水清凉，女儿说真想跳到湖里游泳， 呵呵，没带游泳衣，只能下次了。 面对湖光山色，吃罢自带的午餐牛肉卷饼， 返程。
下午开车直奔cottage，一路上有山有水，的的确确感受到与平原地带的安省不一样的景致，经过Keene Valley（也就是昨天来过的Beaver Meadow Falls trailhead），从车上看到一个巨大的瀑布从天而降，十分壮观。赶紧看地图，似乎是Roaring Brook Falls，可惜错过了。
足足开了2.5小时才到达我们的目的地Lapland Lake Nordic Vacation Center, 139 Lapland Lake Rd, Northville, NY 12134。临近cottage，先后看到了一只鹿，和两只十分可爱的小黑熊横穿马路，女儿说真想养那小熊当宠物，太cute了 。
到达cottage已是晚饭时间， 赶紧埋锅造饭， 炖一大锅事先准备好的排骨冻豆腐土豆白菜汤， 吃的十分过瘾。然后三人分别各居一室， 在这个三卧房的cottage酣然入睡， 感觉不是一般的奢侈。
该怎样描述这个我在网页里一见钟情的cottage呢， 咋看外观平常， 细看甚是欣喜。住过多次不同的cottage，这是我住过的最干净的， 卫生间一尘不染，厨房用具齐全。有sunroom，纱窗严密，夜晚纳凉，看萤火虫在黑夜跳舞， 白天在摇椅小憩，绝妙！另外，冬季这里是越野滑雪胜地，cottage是有空调制暖的，但据owner说屋内的火炉效率很高，易操作，取暖过程感觉比电暖器更自然，更舒服。Cottage没有电视和网络， 晚上我们一家三口围坐沙发读书聊天，女儿十分喜欢这种和平常不一样的夜晚，安静温馨，其乐融融。
房间里面有详细的cottage resort及周边地区方方面面的介绍，一个大厚本子应有尽有，简直是吃喝玩乐大全， 还包括医疗信息， 感觉这个resort的管理十分严谨周到。 Cottage owner 的创业史也写在里面， 读完很是敬重这个长在芬兰的美国运动员，和他能干的妻子。
Cottage出去走7/8分钟的林间小路， 就属于resort的private lake，人不多，十分安静，泛舟其上，或静观晨雾在湖上跳舞，或远眺暮色渐染群山，就像在自家的后院一样的逍遥自在， 这种感觉千金难买。女儿除了最爱的kayak，canoe， 还十分喜欢paddle boat, 说感觉回到了old days。湖水清澈，游泳极佳。如能带上鱼竿尝试钓鱼也许更好。
在cottage的一个小插曲，至今回忆起来还让我们忍俊不止： 傍晚时分， 我们在湖面划船， 视野之内只有湖水，远山 和我们的船，除了野鸭子偶尔嘎嘎，四周安静极了。忽然听得一种响亮的叫声从岸边传来，早听说这附近有reindeer，是她吗? 女儿很兴奋地把船划到岸边去追踪这个叫声，屏住呼吸聆听她的动向，小心翼翼地滑动船桨靠近，想一睹她的芳容，无奈追踪良久一无所获，天色已晚只好作罢。 第二天和owner说起此事，他告诉我们那很可能是一种青蛙的叫声：夜间出没，声音很大。。。我们听后大笑，一切美好想象倾刻无踪。
原计划cottage期间再去附近走Crane Mountain trail， 但三个人都想take it easy，最终被小镇游代替， 开车十几分钟的小镇Northville景色不错， 在Great Sacandaga Lake湖边餐馆吃个午餐， 再到小镇咖啡店（Java John's Coffee Shop，South Main st, Northville）耗上个把小时也是十分惬意的事情。女儿还想试试骑马，但时间不够，只能等下次了，有时候留点遗憾也未尝不是好事。
两天悠闲的cottage生活很快结束， 星期二吃罢午餐启程回家， 路过Green Lakes State park, 7900 Green Lakes Rd, Fayetteville, NY。稍作停顿，这个湖的特别之处是水的颜色，蓝中带绿，水质清澈，岸边游泳的人极多。
沿湖散步，没注意到天上已是乌云密布，原以为雷声还远，谁知顷刻间大雨倾斜而下， 我们撒鸭子往车里跑，但为时已晚，浑身上下被大雨浇了个透。我们开心大笑，一不小心又创造一个之最（平生被雨淋得最透的一次）！赶快找卫生间收拾停当，打道回府，从大瀑布过境回家。
到家附近的鱼汤店吃一碗热腾腾的鱼汤米线，为这次旅程划了个完美的 - 暂停号，我们还会再来！
Tips from Internet：
Beaver Meadow Falls (3.7 mile one way) is one of the most picturesque waterfalls in the Adirondacks, but it does require a bit of work to reach it. With a fanned out waterfall feature it cascades a gorgeous white to the Ausable River below. Be sure to read the link on the parking and trailhead and note that dogs are absolutely prohibited in this game preserve
Primary Trailhead: This is part of the St Huberts parking area/trailhead. Leave Lake Placid on Rte 73, follow Rte 73 toward Keene. Continue through Keene and Keene Valley and into Saint Huberts. Continue to the trailhead for the AMR on the right, directly across the road for the Roaring Brook Falls Trail to Giant Mountain. This is approximately 3.0 miles from the outskirts of Keene Valley.
The St. Huberts Parking area is located 7.5 Miles west on route 73 from the junction of exit 30 on 87. When driving west on 73 you will see a road sign on the left named Ausable Road. This is the only sign visible from the road that marks the entrance to the parking lot. Also it is directly across from the Roaring Brook Trailhead on the right, which leads to Giant Mt.
When entering Ausable Road, the lot is immediately visible and there is no parking allowed along the road which leads to the Ausable Club.
The parking lot holds approximately 40 cars, although more have probably been squeezed in on busy weekends. When the lot is full, there is some parking across the street at the Roaring Brook Trailhead, or along the side of route 73 itself.）
From the parking lot you will initially have to follow a dirt road to a paved road. Just before reaching the main club house, turn left and down between two tennis courts on Lake Road Way to get to the gate into the AMR. The AMR is private property with recreational easements, special rules apply to use and those are posted at the gate. From the gate hike the dirt road for nearly 2 miles to a sign for a trail on the right for Gothics and Beaver Meadow Falls. This trail will lead you through an attractive forest to a bridge over the Ausable River. Just over the bridge is Beaver Meadow Falls, you will hear it before you see it. Pass the bridge, continue to the falls.
Whiteface Landing, Whiteface Landing is visited along the route to Whiteface Mountain, but makes for an excellent destination for all.
Whiteface Landing sits at the northeast end of Lake Placid (the lake). It is an excellent paddling destination as well as a hiking. It makes for an excellent spot to go fishing or take a cool dip in the Adirondack waters.
Primary Trailhead: From the intersection of Route 73 and Route 86, follow Route 86 toward Wilmington. Continue for 3.0 miles to the Whiteface Trailhead on the left. During the summer months and into the fall you can drive the Connery Pond Road back to the trailhead. If the gate is closed it will require you to park just up the road on Route 86 at one of two parking lots near the river.
This is a 2.5 mile hike one way to the Whiteface Landing. From the trailhead at Connery Pond pass by the gate and begin a rather moderate hike along an old woods road. You will pass by some camps along the way, these are private. A yellow gate marks the start of state land. The road from here becomes much more gravel strewn and adds on a bit of elevation. The footing is a bit tough in spots due to the rocky terrain but it's a rather quick hike back to Whiteface Landing.
6 mile RT, mostly easy with moderate elevation and some rocky spots, Elevation: 1860' Ascent: 195'
Crane Mountain, A beautiful loop hike up Crane Mountain complete with suspended ladders up cliffs and a descent past a mountain pond.
This loop trail takes you up the steep route up to the top of Crane Mountain's exposed summit. This route even climbs a tall ladder suspsended to a rock cliff so get ready to climb a bit! Once on top you'll have great views from multiple ledges and then descend around a beautiful mountain pond of the same name with an option to climb some rock ledges for alternative views. From the pond you'll descend gradually in a loop trail back to your vehicle.
Tips: Crane Mountain Trailhead:
From Johnsburg, NY and Rte. 8 turn south onto South Johnsburgh Road. Follow this until you come to the small town of Thurman where you will take a right onto Garnet Lake Road. Travel 1.4 miles down this road until you see a DEC sign pointing towards Crane Mountain. The road turns to dirt as you follow this sign for another 2 miles. At this point you will see a small dirt road on the right which can be rough. You can park here or walk the half mile to the true trailhead. It is free to park here.
Points of Interests:
1. Crane Mountain Trailhead
Start off on the shorter trail to the summit starting to the right. This trail is the steeper way up the mountain but is the best way to go for your knees as the descent past the pond is more gradual. It is free to park
2. Crane Mountain Summit
At 3,254 you are now at the summit of Crane Mountain. From the rock ledges at the top you will have amazing views. Check out the pond you are about to descend to. Did you make it up that suspended ladder to the top? From the summit follow the trail that heads down towards Crane Mountain Pond to the north to do a different, more gradual, loop back to the parking lot.
3. Pond Viewpoint
While you are skirting around the pond to the north you can take the time to scramble up the rocks here to check out a different view over Crane Mountain Pond.
4. Crane Mountain Pond, Views over Crane Mountain Pond.
5. Last Junction, at this junction you will want to head left back towards the Crane Mountain Trailhead.