【中餐西餐好吃就是美餐】西餐篇，给蝌蚪大师交作业

去年看来小蝌蚪大师6月28日的晚餐，在大开眼界和感叹之余，也有了要想做一套西餐的冲动。不过一直不敢动，一年都已经过去了，这行动还是没跟上。眼瞅着又进入了下一年，总不能又再继续冲动一年吧，于是终于鼓足了勇气，抱着丑媳妇也要见公婆豁出去的念头，开始做作业了。

做西餐才发现自己在厨房也不是那么自信了，已经找不到自己做中餐时的那种信手拈来的感觉。对我而言，最大的困难在于原料。很多东西我都没有现成的，有不少还要自己制作。无论是各种各样的香料油（柠檬油、香葱油、薄荷油、迷迭香油等）；特殊的香料粉（番茄粉、金橘粉等）；还是功封番茄、功封金橘以及各种各样的调味料都要自己一手从头准备。当我做好所有的准备的时候，家里堆满了各种各样，五颜六色的小瓶子（只可惜自己当时一门心思想到完成作业，忘记给它们排队合影了，不过也好，把这个遗憾留在下次补上吧，又给自己一点动力。），女儿看着我视为宝贝的瓶瓶罐罐，笑话我这不是在做饭，更像是在过家家。可不是吗，女人同女孩不同之处之一就是玩具不一样，我们的洋娃娃可是一个个脾气十足的真娃娃。

不管怎样，作业终于是完成了，是否合格，这个要请老师批阅了。



敬菜三样：西瓜菊花冰茶；Salmon Tartare Cornets；Mixted Fruit Scallop Ceviche



其实本来想做的是另一个，不过买回来的原料被馋猫们喝完了，只好临时改了这个来充数。

果味冰茶的制作方法请点击这儿：



Mixted Fruit Scallop Ceviche（时鲜水果酸桔汁腌鲜贝）
这个简单好吃，特别是在夏季，清凉开胃，关键就是原材料一定要新鲜。Ceviche是拉丁美洲一种特殊的烹饪方式，就是用酸桔汁来腌海鲜。我用的是柠檬汁和西柚汁，将处理干净，新鲜的扇贝浸泡在柠檬汁和西柚汁中，放入冰箱冷藏室浸泡一个晚上，让扇贝的壳在浸泡过程中自己打开，然后取出来切成小块，再放入各种时令水果，加上意大利香菜，胡椒和盐进行调味即可。如果你不放心，你就用汆一下鲜贝，再浸泡在酸桔汁中。



Salmon Tartare Cornets

香脆的芝麻瓦片卷成修长的圆锥形，底部填入洋葱法式奶油酱，上面用三文鱼塔塔覆盖，点缀的是自己园子里的小香葱。具体的做法我将原方子帖在最后。



Oysters and Pearls (Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Oysters and Caviar)
生蚝鱼籽酱西米露



餐馆上这道菜的时候，厨师会对你说，不要嫌弃咱们这蚝小，它们可是我们这儿顶级大厨修整过的，我也老实规矩地把它们修整了一番。原方子里用的西米比较小，我家里现成的西米比较大。希望大厨看见我的这个山寨版，没有被气死。

有人可能会认为吃这道菜的时候鱼籽酱会显得比较咸，我个人认为如果你单独吃鱼籽酱是比较咸，但是如果你连同生蚝和西米露一起吃，味道就很棒了。



功封金橘三文鱼



顶上放的是鱼籽酱和小葱花，盘中洒了一些金橘粉装饰。



Salad of Haricots Verts, Tomato Taetare and Chive Oil
功封番茄塔塔，奶油四季豆沙拉





上这个葱油的时候没有经验，用勺子用的，所以不是很好看。



边上洒的是番茄粉进行装饰，别看这个小东西不起眼，可费了我不少的工夫。



Maine Lobster Pancakes with Pea Shoot Salad and Ginger-Carrot Emulsion
龙虾馅饼配豆苗沙拉胡萝卜乳酱



大厨Thomas Killer在他的书中说道：他一听见豆子和胡萝卜，脑海里就会浮现美国超市里总是将胡萝卜丁同小绿豆一起卖的情景。他不太理解为什么会把这两种蔬菜放在一起，思来想去他自己找的答案是这样的搭配是美国人的思维方式，好像还是没有彻底想通嘛。一次他在同同伴做龙虾馅饼配胡萝卜乳酱的时候，突然萌发了要配上豆苗沙拉的想法，用柠檬油做豆苗的调味料，于是这道菜就这样诞生了。
呵呵，大厨你是有所不知，咱们中国人老百姓的平常菜里，绿豆和胡萝卜可也是常常成双入对的。





Zucchini and Saffron Vichyssoise with Scallops
藏红花鲜贝西葫芦浓汤



可能自己是个好色之徒的缘故，藏红花最吸引我的不是它的昂贵神秘，也不是它的风味，而是它那迷人的亮黄色。



这是醒口的鲜果柠檬雪巴



在顶上放了一根橙味蕾丝瓦片

橙味蕾丝瓦片的制作方法请点击这儿：



这是第一道主菜



Pan-Roasted Striped Bass with Artichoke Ravioli and Barigoule Vinaigrette
煎鱼，洋蓟饺子，杂蔬菜（请原谅我这个十分蹩脚的翻译，反正主要内容就是这些了，哪位高人请帮我整理一下中文翻译。）
绿色的是basil oil，中间饺子的酱料是Barigoule Vinaigrette



不知道为什么，自从看完了电影《朱莉与茱莉亚》以后，一看到煎鱼总会想到电影中品尝黄油煎鱼的情景，我也用了足量的黄油来煎。



第二道主菜，牛扒

有人问我，你怎么能做到牛扒煎得外焦里嫩，又没有血水，我说咱们有秘招呀。除掉我在故弄玄虚的成分，这个真还是认真学习的结果，我真的非常认真地阅读了蝌蚪大师的牛扒专辑。
蝌蚪大师的牛扒专辑，在知识贯穿美味，美味中饱含亲情。让我们在闻着美味的同时学习到了知识，在学习到了知识的同时又为那种浓浓的亲情所感动。我想正是具备了丰富的美食知识才能烹饪出如此的美味，真是拥有了这些亲情的回忆，才能让美味更加具备另一番的滋味。非常的精彩，堪称经典。我自己从中学到了许多东西，强烈推荐大家去阅读他的这个专辑。只要认真，我这个笨鸟都能成功的，聪明的你就没有不成功的可能。

蝌蚪大师牛扒专辑的链接：
http://blog.wenxuecity.com/blogview.php?date=200802&postID=30047
http://blog.wenxuecity.com/blogview.php?date=200802&postID=30048
http://blog.wenxuecity.com/blogview.php?date=200804&postID=7623
http://blog.wenxuecity.com/blogview.php?date=201012&postID=8320



我这次用的是heart of the rib-eye。





这是我自己的自创组合。配菜用了炸土豆饼（这个参考了Potato Pavé）的模样，用盐和胡椒炒香的去皮芦笋，片成薄片的芹菜汆烫后卷成卷。牛肉和蔬菜的酱料是用红酒和肉汁调的，为土豆饼做了一个Bearnaise Sauce。



毫无疑问，甜点是我最喜欢制作的一部分，相对这套餐的其他部分，它也是我自己最得心应手的地方。



这次做的是蓝莓纽约奶酪蛋糕，酱料本来准备用的是蓝莓汁调的酱，不过临时改成了巧克力酱。边上配的是奶酪冰淇淋，顶上用了一小块薄脆装饰，另一边洒了一些杏仁。

纽约奶酪蛋糕的制作方法请点击这儿：



品着自己的劳动成果，脑海里突然闪过一个念头，大家猜猜是什么。哈哈^_^^_^

Salmon Cornets (from the French Laundry Cookbook)
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened but still cool to the touch
2 large egg whites, cold
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds

Salmon Tartare
(makes about 3/4 cup)
4 ounces salmon fillet (belly preferred), skin and any pin bones removed and very finely minced
3/4 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoon finely minced chives
1 1/2 teaspoon finely minced shallots
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
small pinch of freshly ground white pepper, or to taste

Sweet Red Onion Creme Fraiche
1 tablespoon finely minced red onions
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
freshly ground white pepper to taste

Fresh chives, chopped

For the Cornets: In the bowl of a food processor, mix together the flour, sugar, softened butter, salt, and egg whites until completely incorporated and smooth and without any lumps. Transfer the batter to a smaller container, as it will be easier to work with.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Make a 4-inch hollow circular stencil. Place silicon baking mat on the counter (it is easier to work on the Silpat before it is put on the sheet pan). Place the stencil in one corner of the sheet and, holding the stencil flat against the silicon mat, scoop some of the batter onto the back of an offset spatula and spread it in an even layer over the stencil. Then run the spatula over the entire stencil to remove any excess batter. After baking the first batch of cornets, you will be able to judge the correct thickness. You may need a little more or less batter to adjust the thickness of the cornets.

There should not be any holes in the batter. Lift the stencil and repeat the process to make as many rounds as you have molds or to fill the silicon mat, leaving about 1 1/2 inches between the cornets. Sprinkle each cornet with a pinch of black sesame seeds.

Place the silicon mat on a heavy baking sheet and bake for 4 to 6 minutes, or until the batter is set and you see it rippling from the heat. The cornets may have browned in some areas, but they will not be evenly browned at this point.

Open the oven door and place the baking sheet on the door. This will help keep the cornets warm as you roll them and prevent them from becoming too stiff to roll. Flip a cornet over on the sheet pan, sesame seed side down and place 4-1/2 inch cornet mold at the bottom of the round. If you are right-handed, you will want the pointed end on your left and the open end on your right. The tip of the mold should touch the lower left edge (at about 7 o\'clock on a clock face) of the cornet.

Fold the bottom of the cornet and around the mold; it should remain on the sheet pan as you roll. Leave the cornet wrapped around the mold and continue to roll the cornets around molds; as you proceed, arrange the rolled cornets, seams side down, on the sheet pan so they lean against each other, to prevent from rolling.

When all the cornets are rolled, return them to the oven shelf, close the door, and bake for an additional 3 to 4 minutes to set the seams and color the cornets a golden brown. If the color is uneven, stand the cornets on end for a minute or so more, until the color is even. Remove the cornets from the oven and allow to cool just slightly, 30 seconds or so.

Gently remove the cornets from the molds and cool for several minutes on paper towels. Remove the silicon from the baking sheet, wipe the excess butter from it, and allow it to cool down before spreading the next batch. Store the cornets for up to 2 days (for maximum flavor) in an airtight container.

For Salmon Tartare: With a sharp knife, finely mince the salmon fillet (do not use a food processor, as it would damage the texture of the fish) and place it in a small bowl. Stir in the remaining ingredients and taste for seasoning. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the tartare for at least 30 minutes, or up to 12 hours.



For Sweet Red Onion Crme Fraiche: Place the red onions in a small strainer and rinse them under cold water for several seconds. Dry them on paper towels. In a small metal bowl, whisk the creme fraiche for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until it holds soft peaks when you lift the whisk. Fold in the chopped onions and season to taste with the salt and white pepper. Transfer the onion cream to a container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve of for up to 6 hours.

To Complete: Fill just the top 1/2 inch of each cornet with onion cream, leaving the bottom of the cone empty. (This is easily done using a pastry bag fitted with a 1/4-inch plain tip or with the tip of a small knife.) Spoon about 1-1/2 teaspoons of the tartare over the onion cream and mold it into a dome resembling a scoop of ice cream. Sprinkle with chives to garnish.

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