2018義大利（23/完）威尼斯（下）

白晝的威尼斯，陽光太強烈，人聲太喧囂，太熱太濕，氣氛完全不對。 想要細細品味她滄桑背後的優雅，with tenderness and with gratitude，必須趕在大隊人馬入侵前早起，靜靜與威尼斯獨處。

威尼斯的清晨比黃昏更清淨，有另一番魅惑。




Brideshead Revisited里， 男主人公回憶，“These memories, which are my life—for we possess nothing certainly except the past—were always with me. Like the pigeons of St. Mark’s, they were everywhere, under my feet, singly, in pairs, in little honey-voiced congregations, nodding, strutting, winking, rolling the tender feathers of their necks, perching sometimes, if I stood still, on my shoulder or pecking a broken biscuit from between my lips; until, suddenly, the noon gun boomed and in a moment, with a flutter and sweep of wings, the pavement was bare and the whole sky above dark with a tumult of fowl. Thus it was that morning.”

熹微晨光，這樣惆悵的句子，和著溫柔拍打岸邊的波浪，叫人心頭牽動；往昔種種細膩的模糊的情懷，那些將忘未忘的過往，如淡淡的影子；太陽一出，便似露水一般，蒸發而去。

只有這個時候，廣場的鴿子比人多。




雖然時節完全不對，但Joseph Brodsky的Watermark是我讀過最美的威尼斯情書。 這位命運多舛的俄國旅美詩人，諾獎得主，把冬天的威尼斯迷霧寫的如夢似幻。
“In winter you wake up in this city, especially on Sundays, to the chiming of its innumerable bells, as though behind your gauze curtains a gigantic china tea set were vibrating on a silver tray in the pearl-gray sky. You fling the window open and the room is instantly flooded with this outer, peal-laden haze, which is part damp oxygen, part coffee and prayers.” 

Brodsky說清晨第一線晨光下的總督府是最美的。 Must not miss this miracle.






嘆息橋


我也嘆息，嘆息的是她的美麗。


聖馬可廣場另一側的時鐘塔，上面是代表聖馬可的雄獅


如果是在冬季的灰色濃霧中，對面的San Giorgio Maggiore怕是都被裹藏了。也許美，有了遮掩與躲藏，有了神秘，才更吸引人。


Monet筆下的San Giorgio Maggiore


在清晨的威尼斯享受小桥流水的柳暗花明，Brodsky把這座水上城市比做樂章。
“It really does look like musical sheets, frayed at the edges, constantly played, coming to you in tidal scores, in bars of canals with innumerable obbligati of bridges, mullioned windows, or curved crownings of Coducci cathedrals, not to mention the violin necks of gondolas. In fact, the whole city, especially at night, resembles a gigantic orchestra, with dimly lit music strands of palazzi, with a restless chorus of waves, with the falsetto of a star in the winter sky. The music is, of course, greater than the band, and no hand can turn the page.”

我知道，只有此刻，良辰和美景終於都屬於我。 沈醉於橋影與水痕裡，每一个角落都能看到水道的波光滟潋。


“We pass from one realm of water to another.”


















坐船渡到對面的小島San Giorgio Maggiore。




也跟Monet老公公筆下的比比看


小巧幽静的小岛屬於教皇老人家




早晨還沒有什麼遊客，我們搭乘電梯到鐘樓頂。風光無限好。










Brodsky就葬在這裡，但我們沒有刻意去找他的墓碑。

外島Murano

Murano以玻璃出名。






島上的大型玻璃藝術。




午餐時候，老公請餐馆老闆推薦一間玻璃廠，老闆給了我們免費參觀的coupon。 帶著孩子們看了一個demo。 這麼多年過去了，做的還是馬。




好多稚趣的Murano的玻璃製品。











回到主島，到處晃晃買買，終於得去趕飛機。
夕陽西下，告別威尼斯，不帶走一片雲彩












就用Brodsky的結語，“We go and beauty stays. Because we are headed for the future, while beauty is the eternal present.”