为什么大型奢侈品牌争先为男性打造精品珠宝？ | 彭博商业周刊
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为何大型奢侈品牌争先为男性打造精品珠宝
路易·威登、大卫·雅曼、约翰·哈迪等一众高奢品牌聚焦一个十年内规模有望翻倍的市场。
Lately, famous men have been embracing outsize jewelry for their biggest public moments. Whether it’s chunky gold necklaces draped over colorful suits at the NFL draft or the cavalcade of diamond brooches pinned to tuxedos at the 2024 Academy Awards, male celebrities are going bold—and the world’s biggest jewelry makers are betting everyday shoppers will soon follow. David Yurman, John Hardy and Louis Vuitton were among a host of brands this year that unveiled new fine- and high-jewelry collections with precious metals and gemstones. Prices are way up, too.
最近，男明星们在重大公开场合开始佩戴超大号珠宝。无论是在美国职业橄榄球联盟（NFL）选秀上，运动员们穿着五颜六色的西装，佩戴厚重的金项链，还是在2024年奥斯卡颁奖典礼上，男明星们将钻石胸针别在西服上，他们正在大胆尝试，而全球珠宝商巨头们也纷纷押宝大众消费者会快速跟进，效仿他们。今年，大卫·雅曼（David Yurman）、约翰·哈迪（John Hardy）和路易·威登（Louis Vuitton）等众多品牌推出了贵金属和宝石的精品珠宝和高级珠宝系列，价格也水涨船高。
For the women’s market, the term “high jewelry” refers to pieces with exceptional craftsmanship and large, rare gemstones; the showstoppers are often one of a kind. For the men’s, though, the phrase is used less precisely. David Yurman’s new “high jewelry” collection, the Vault, features a few signature designs—link bracelets, dog tags, chain necklaces, signet rings—but merely upgrades them with gold, platinum and diamond embellishments. In a women’s collection, this would simply be considered fine jewelry.
对于女性市场来说，“高级珠宝”指工艺卓越、镶嵌稀有硕大宝石的珠宝；这些珠宝独一无二，令人叹为观止。然而，对于男性市场来说，这一称谓的使用则显得相对宽泛。大卫·雅曼全新推出的高级珠宝“珍阁(Vault)”系列，虽然采用一些标志性设计——链式手镯、狗牌、链式项链、图章戒指，但仅仅是用黄金、铂金和钻石的点缀来提升档次。在女性珠宝市场，这样的品质通常只能算得上精品珠宝。
注释：showstopper: something that is striking or has great popular appeal
Reed Krakoff, creative chairman of John Hardy and former chief artistic officer at Tiffany & Co., sees a larger acceptance of men experimenting with personal style. Before, he says, “you would see men wearing a diamond stud or a signet ring, and now it’s much more about creating a look that’s your own. I think athletes are really at the forefront of it.”
约翰·哈迪的创意主席、蒂芙尼公司（Tiffany & Co.）前首席艺术总监瑞德·克拉考夫（Reed Krakoff）认为，大众对男性尝试个人风格的接受度越来越高。以前，“男性会佩戴钻石耳钉或者图章戒指，但现在更偏向于打造个人风格。运动员在引领这一潮流方面堪称先锋。”
Indeed, many football players treat stadium entrances like runway shows. And for actual high-fashion moments such as the Met Gala, Miami Dolphins wide receiver Odell Beckham Jr. and Kansas City Chiefs quarterback Patrick Mahomes have worn necklaces and brooches. The men who look up to them have noticed.
确实，球场通道成了许多球员的走秀T台。而在例如纽约大都会博物馆慈善晚宴这样的高级时尚场合，迈阿密海豚队外接手小奥德尔·贝克汉姆(Odell Beckham Jr.)和堪萨斯城酋长队四分卫帕特里克·马霍姆斯(Patrick Mahomes)佩戴项链和胸针出席，成功吸引了男性球迷的目光。
“These stars have a significant impact on their loyal following, who have incorporated this trend” into their everyday looks, says George Archer, buying manager at men’s fashion retailer Mr Porter. They are, however, doing it more subtly. “Through mirroring the style influence of the profiles they admire in a ‘real’ way, they have helped normalize statement jewelry.” In a recent report, Polaris Market Research found the size of the men’s business was $5.2 billion in 2023 and expects it to grow to almost $11 billion by 2032. “In the past three to four years, the market has gained increased awareness,” says the report’s lead analyst, Rohan Mahal. “The women’s jewelry market is highly mature, so we feel that the men’s jewelry market is going to grow at a much higher scale.”
“忠粉受这些明星影响很大，已经把这股潮流融入日常穿搭”，男士时尚电商平台Mr Porter的时装买手乔治·阿奇尔(George Archer)这样说。然而，他们做得更巧妙。“他们通过‘切实可行’的方式复刻偶像的风格，让个性十足的珠宝变得更适合日常穿搭。”北极星市场研究公司最新报告指出，2023年男士时尚业务规模为52亿美元，预计到2032年将增长至近110亿美元。“过去三四年，对男士时尚市场的认识不断提高”，该报告首席分析师罗汉·马哈尔(Rohan Mahal)说，“女士珠宝市场已经高度成熟，所以我们认为男士珠宝市场的增长潜力将更为巨大。”
这款“Les Gastons Vuitton”系列的小型饰牌挂坠，采用黄金与钛金属材质，售价3600美元，是路易·威登面向男性消费者推出的精品珠宝系列产品之一。来源：路易·威登
Louis Vuitton introduced its men’s fine jewelry collection, Les Gastons Vuitton, in January as a group of 16 pieces that includes necklaces with LV monogram tags. Its prices range from $2,080 for a single trunk-shaped earring to $42,500 for a white gold chain necklace with diamonds. Prices in the Vault collection by David Yurman range from $17,500 for a pavé diamond link bracelet to $295,000 for a link bracelet with 40 carats of diamonds.
路易·威登于一月推出男士精品珠宝系列“Les Gastons Vuitton”，共16款，包括带有标志性LV首字母饰牌的项链，定价范围很广，箱形耳饰单只定价2080美元，镶钻白金链式项链定价4.25万美元。大卫·雅曼的“珍阁”系列，定价从密镶钻石链式腕饰的1.75万美元到40克拉钻石链式腕饰的29.5万美元不等。
In January fine jeweler Lagos introduced its men’s collection, Anthem, named in honor of a Grateful Dead album, Anthem of the Sun. Prices start at $150 and top out at $7,800, with pieces crafted from materials such as 18-karat gold, sterling silver and ceramic. Some designs feature black diamonds, emeralds and Tahitian pearls—plus totems of skulls and crossbones, daggers, gladiator helmets and snakes.
一月，精品珠宝品牌Lagos推出了男士系列——颂歌(Anthem)，以纪念感恩死亡乐队(Grateful Dead)的专辑《太阳之歌》（Anthem of the Sun）。该系列起价150美元，最高价7800美元，采用18K黄金、纯银和陶瓷制成。有些款式选用黑钻石、绿宝石和大溪地珍珠，搭配头骨、十字架、短剑、角斗士头盔和蛇的图腾。
This kind of imagery, along with simple styles like chains, ropes, chunky rings and ID tags, is viewed by these makers as safe territory. Don’t expect huge experimentation anytime soon. “We are doubling down on statement jewelry that has a sense of timelessness and pieces that can be worn forever, for any occasion,” says Mr Porter’s Archer. “Yellow gold and white diamonds lead the charge.”
在珠宝商眼里，链条、绳索、粗环和身份标签等简约款式搭配这类图案的设计是安全的，短期内难以大规模复制。“我们正在加速开发经典百搭、适合各种场合的个性珠宝。”时装买手先生阿奇尔表示，“黄金和钻石仍在潮流前列。”
Krakoff’s goal is to make men’s jewelry account for half of John Hardy’s business. “You see big, bold rings in sterling or gold with diamonds and sapphires, and those pieces are doing super well already,” he says. Eventually “you’ll start to see more bold graphic jewelry—a next step away from traditional jewelry in the men’s category.” When gents dip their toes into these waters, they may start with an inexpensive piece, then upgrade to sterling silver, followed by gold, then finally high jewelry. And these brands will be ready for them.
克拉考夫（Krakoff）的目标是，让男性珠宝占据约翰·哈迪业务的半壁江山。“现在，那些设计前卫、镶嵌钻石或蓝宝石的大号金银戒指卖得非常好，”未来，“我们将会看到更多设计大胆的产品——这是男士珠宝有别于传统珠宝业务的发展趋势。”选购珠宝时，男士们可能会从价格亲民的单品入手，然后逐步升级到纯银、黄金，最后投入精品珠宝的怀抱。而各大品牌已经为迎接他们做好准备。
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