韩裔名厨抢占“辣椒油”商标惹争议，外国网友：还得是老干妈
近日，美籍韩裔名厨张锡镐（David Chang）和他的福桃品牌（Momofuku）因为要求其他小企业停止使用“chili crunch”一词引起争议，遭到其他亚裔辣椒酱公司指责。
此举引发了巨大的舆论争议，张锡镐与福桃集团被炮轰是“商标霸凌者”（trademark bully）。
面对强烈的抵制和批评，张锡镐本人及其公司近日公开道歉，表示将不再强行主张所谓的商标权。
卫报报道页面截图
事件回顾
近年来，一种质地酥脆的油辣椒在美国越来越流行，它由干辣椒、炸大蒜、芝麻和花椒制作而成，改良自中式传统辣椒油。这种调味品被美国吃货洒在饺子、面条、鸡蛋和披萨上，甚至淋在冰淇淋上。
美国辣椒酱 图源：EATER
Across the US, a crunchy, crispy chili oil is being drizzled over dumplings, noodles, eggs, pizza — even ice cream.
Once an almost secret sauce, this deep red condiment made with bits of dry chilis, crispy fried garlic, and often with sesame seeds and Sichuan pepper, has its roots in China.
Different variations of chili crisp and other hot sauces have gained popularity in the US in recent years.
福桃自2020年开始销售辣椒油产品。2023年，福桃从一家名为“Chile Colonial”的公司手中购入了“chile crunch”的商标权。今年3月29日，福桃向美国专利商标局（USPTO）递交了注册“chili crunch”商标的申请，等待批复预计耗时一年。
Momofuku started selling its Chili Crunch product in 2020, a riff on Chinese condiment chili crisp and other similar products from other countries.
Momofuku acquired the trademark for the name “chile crunch” from Chile Colonial in 2023. Momofuku has began the filing process with the USPTO on 29 March, which can often take a year.
condiment /ˈkɒndɪmənt/ 调味料；作料
虽然还没在美国拿下“chili crunch”的商标权，但福桃已经主张两个商标都归其所有，四处警告他人别“侵权”。今年3月，福桃向那些在产品名称中使用“chili crunch”或“chile crunch”的公司发出了7封警告信。被警告的商家基本都是规模小于福桃的亚裔商户，包括美国华裔经营的西雅图中餐馆MìLà、美国马来西亚食品品牌Homiah等小型企业。
In March, Momofuku sent seven cease-and-desist letters to companies that were calling their product “Chili Crunch” or “Chile Crunch.” Most of the companies that received the letter were small brands founded by Asian Americans.
Homiah品牌创始人米歇尔·图（Michelle Tew）在某职场类社交媒体上写道，这封信“就像是一记重拳打在肚子上”。
Michelle Tew 领英平台发言截图
4月6日，与MìLà有商务合作的加拿大华裔演员刘思慕在社交媒体平台X上发文，称福桃是在“霸凌”其他商家，并向其发起挑战：
刘思慕X平台发言截图
Hey @momofuku, l hear you're bullying businesses over use of the term 'chili crunch'. As Chief Content Officer of MiLa, l propose a blind taste test of both our 'chili crunch' sauces. Winner keeps the name, loser (it'll be you) backs off. Game on? ; )
嘿，@福桃，我听说你因为“chili crunch”这个词的使用权问题霸凌其他商家。作为MìLà的首席内容官，我提议对两种辣椒酱进行盲品测试。赢家获得使用权，输家（就是你）退场。游戏开始？
当地时间4月12日，美国全国广播公司（NBC）发文称，这场争议重新激发了人们对老干妈的喜爱。许多亚裔美国人认为，如果辣椒油“元老”（ “OG” chili oil ）——老干妈无需“霸凌”其他企业就能获得长久的成功，福桃也不应该这样做。
NBC报道页面截图
All the same, the furor has renewed love for Lao Gan Ma spicy chili crisp, an iconic condiment that many of Asian descent, particularly Chinese Americans, associate with home.
Before his decision to no longer enforce the trademark, many Asian Americans said that if the “OG” chili oil — Lao Gan Ma — has found prolonged success without having to “bully” other businesses, Momofuku shouldn’t do so, either. And others said the nostalgia-packed staple with the recognizable Asian auntie logo deserves its flowers.
舆论持续发酵后，当地时间4月12日，福桃决定不再强制执行其主张的商标权并道歉。此外，张锡镐在一档播客节目中承认中国调味品老干妈确实是其灵感来源之一，并称出于对老干妈的尊重，才选用了另一个词。
Chang, in his podcast, explained the backstory behind Momofuku’s chili crunch, citing the brand Lao Gan Ma, known for its spicy chili crisp sauce, as one of the original inspirations for the product, in addition to other sauces including ssamjang and salsa macha.
"When we were thinking about naming — and again, shame on me if I didn’t know this — but we named it chili crunch specifically because it was not chili crisp," Chang explained. "And we named it chili crunch because it was out of deference to chili crisp, which we associated with as Chinese, specifically carved out by Lao Gan Ma."
编辑：朱迪齐 李雪晴
实习生：田园
来源：观察者网 美联社 卫报 NBC等
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