国内奢侈品都卖翻了。
China’s luxury spending revives in Q1 following lockdown disruption
The first of a new quarterly consumer study from Vogue Business and Barclays Research shows that the appetite for luxury shopping and travel will be sustained well beyond Chinese New Year.
By Vogue Business in partnership with BarclaysApril 6, 2023 Make better business decisions Sign up to our newsletter for a truly global perspective on the fashion industry
To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here. This might not be a banner year for consumer demand, with the likelihood of recession looming, particularly in the US, the UK and Germany, but the luxury industry is likely to feel some relief as demand returns in China post-lockdown. The economy is expected to grow by 4.5 to 5 per cent in 2023, according to Barclays. Carole Madjo, head of Barclays luxury goods equity research, estimates that sales to Chinese consumers could be up by 35 per cent on 2022 and argues that growth will continue to be supported by consumers splurging on higher ticket items. This is good news for luxury players such as Cartier and Chloé owner Richemont and British heritage brand Burberry, which were impacted by a slowdown in China last year. A return to normal life means a revival of the social scene, providing additional reasons to wear luxury. Following the relaxation of Covid restrictions, this year’s Lunar New Year and overall Q1 spending indicated that consumers are spending with enthusiasm once again. Insights from a recent Vogue Businessand Barclays Research consumer study also supports this, dissecting the spending behaviour of Chinese consumers, where 532 luxury shoppers were surveyed.
Strong luxury spending trends Indicating a strong appetite for luxury in the period that included the Lunar New Year on 22 January, 51 per cent of survey respondents spent RMB 8,000 ($1,162) or more during the past three months on luxury fashion, with over a quarter of these (28 per cent) spending as high as RMB 20,000 ($2,912) or more. At the lower range, only 17 per cent of survey respondents spent under RMB 2,499 ($364). The outlook for the period ahead is positive, too. Twenty-eight per cent of luxury consumers surveyed expect to spend RMB 20,000 ($2,912) and more over the next three months on luxury fashion products, and more than half (51 per cent) expect to spend over RMB 8,000 ($1,162), indicating a sustained level of spending beyond this peak time of celebration. Also indicating a general return to confidence among luxury consumers were the 50 per cent who said they are investing in stocks and shares, despite chances of a global recession, which often spells trouble for the stock market. If growth in the region continues as expected, rising stability and consumer confidence may help to encourage future spend. Gucci, also owned by Kering, was popular too, with 28 per cent of respondents buying the brand, compared with 21.4 per cent for Louis Vuitton, the flagship of the LVMH portfolio. “Gucci has reported weaker revenue growth than its main competitors in China over the last few years… the fact that it had one of the highest levels of buyership in Q1 2023 and strong buyership intent for Q2 2023 is thus a positive surprise,” adds Madjo.
Jewellery shines in the festive season At category level, LVMH leads in China for jewellery too; Tiffany was bought by 17.5 per cent of luxury consumers over the last three months, compared to Richemont’s Cartier at 16.2 per cent. “The popularity of Tiffany in this survey is a sign that the brand’s transformation (that started since its acquisition by LVMH) is bearing fruits,” says Madjo. Looking ahead, other LVMH brands, including Celine, Loewe, Louis Vuitton and Bulgari, can also expect a significant rise in planned luxury purchases during Q2 versus Q1. Handbags were the most popular of all luxury fashion items, bought by 38 per cent of respondents, followed by casual shoes and jewellery at 36 per cent each. The dominance of casual shoes is striking given recent waning interest in the category in some Western countries. Looking to apparel, coats and outerwear were bought by 29 per cent of respondents, which bodes well for Moncler and Burberry in particular, according to Madjo. The high interest in jewellery is not a surprise. Gold, often gifted as jewellery, bars and coins during the Lunar New Year, remains culturally significant, with many Chinese consumers believing it to bring good luck and protection. Beyond the new year, 37 per cent of Chinese luxury consumers surveyed by Vogue Business said that they invest in jewellery, art and luxury goods.
Lunar New Year sets the trend The Lunar New Year is undoubtedly a big motivator for spending, with 41 per cent of respondents saying they make luxury purchases specifically for special occasions, including the new year, as well birthdays and other holidays. Looking at luxury fashion spending alone, the Lunar New Year quarter saw around half of consumers (47 per cent) spend RMB 8,000 ($1,162) or over, with 24 per cent of these spending over RMB 20,000 ($2,912). By comparison, only 16 per cent of respondents spent RMB 2,499 ($364) or less. Naturally, gifting has been key — more than a third (34 per cent) of respondents said they purchased luxury products as a gift during the last three months. Big spenders — those spending RMB 17,000 ($2,475) or more on luxury fashion — were more likely to buy gifts for loved ones, at 36 per cent, compared to 31 per cent of those spending at the lower range (those spending less than RMB 17,000).
‘Self-gifting’ is also popular in China. Beyond the Lunar New Year period, around 37 per cent of respondents said they bought luxury products in the past three months to reward themselves for reaching a personal milestone, while 28 per cent bought themselves a payday treat. Moments like these are important for brands to think about, as they can help encourage more frequent high-end spend throughout the year rather than relying solely on national or cultural gifting occasions. Nearly half (49 per cent) of respondents also say they buy luxury goods when they see something they like on social media, making a compelling case for opportunistic spending based on instant gratification and treats.
Growing wanderlust Following three years of restrictions, demand for travel rose rapidly during the Lunar New Year in China, too, with domestic tourism reviving to 88.6 per cent of the pre-pandemic figure, according to government data. This is also reflected in the survey results, with almost half the respondents (49 per cent) saying they have taken domestic trips within China during this time. Desire for retail therapy was evidently a factor, given that tourists to China’s homegrown luxury shopping destination Hainan Island reached 6.4 million people over the Lunar New Year period — up by 18.2 per cent over last year. Before the pandemic, international travel was popular for shopping for luxury products. In the interim, Hainan became a popular local alternative. It now houses brands from leading luxury companies like LVMH, Richemont and Kering and saw a 21 per cent rise in duty-free sales during the Lunar New Year versus last year. However, in terms of the year ahead, demand for international travel supersedes other high-ticket plans; among other categories like cars or home renovation, the highest proportion (62 per cent) of Chinese luxury consumers will be spending on travelling abroad over the next 12 months. And of those who expect to travel internationally, 40 per cent expect to do so at least twice in the coming year. As flight capacity in H2 improves, Barclays predicts that Chinese consumers will spend more on fashion and leather goods when visiting Europe, given that prices in China currently are 25-45 per cent more expensive than in Europe, as per Barclays estimates.
Key takeaways: Travel and shopping during Q1 and the Lunar New Year have seen increased demand among Chinese consumers, with clear wins for hard luxury and leather goods in the past three months. “Because of the various lockdowns that took place last year, luxury brands in China are facing a low basis of comparison and should thus be able to report strong revenue growth this year” explains Barclay’s Madjo. The interest in bellwether brands such as Chanel, Dior and Gucci shows that consumers are eager to acquire luxury goods once more, but crucially, big social and gifting occasions are not the only opportunities for brands. Luxury brands would be wise to spend more time understanding the moments that drive more frequent spend throughout the year, particularly when it comes to opportunities for treat spend. Meanwhile, as global economic uncertainty prevails, investors may see more resilience in jewellery as Chinese consumers embrace this category for both cultural and financial security. With an augmented consumer appetite for travel, self-gifting and instant gratification, luxury in China could represent a boon for investors against a more dismal global economic backdrop. Boilerplate: *Vogue Business surveyed 532 luxury consumers in China, aged 18-64 in March 2023. Consumers were split by natural fallout across gender and age group (18 -24, 25-34, 35-44, 45-54 and 55-64). Respondents were luxury shoppers with a minimum spend of RMB 1,000 ($145) on a single item or a total spend of RMB 8,500 ($1,236) over the last 12 months. Respondents were asked about their luxury shopping habits, spending and travel over Lunar New Year, as well as planned spending activity over the coming months. This is the first edition of an ongoing quarterly study of Chinese luxury consumers in partnership with Barclays Research. Comments, questions or feedback? Email us [email protected]